The trouble with summer is ...

Regular readers know I love summer-time; I enjoy the heat and hardly notice the humidity. But swimsuit shopping is a pain! So here are some tips to make it a bit easier.

As taught in your Personal Style workshop, the basic principles apply; choose a flattering colour, match your style personality and scale, find the right design lines then highlight your assets and camouflage figure challenges.

Tummy issues

Tummy issues? Draping and ruching work well by preventing the fabric from clinging (photo on left). Or, distract away from the area by creating a focus elsewhere eg your bust (photo on right).

Pear shape

Pear shape? draw the eye upwards by using a print top with a plain & darker colour for the lower half. Both togs use horizontal lines at the top to highlight the bust, the halter neck shows off  slim shoulders while the wide-set straps help to widen narrow shoulders.

Wardrobe Treasures

Most of us have them - wardrobe treasures. They're the items we wear again and again, our favourites. They may be clothes or accessories (jewellery, bags, belts, footwear, scarves).

So what is it that makes them work so well? Because if you know that, you can repeat the success. Here are the aspects I've identified:

Colour: treasures are often in your Season's neutrals as they go with any of your colours, often core pieces ie essentials. Other success stories will be in your Season's colours. Have you discovered your 'magic' ones? There are usually two or three colours within your Season that look particularly amazing.

Style: there are two aspects to style; the first one is about your style personality. A favourite item reflects your style personality mix, with similar percentages.

The other aspect is the style of the garment; treasures have a timelessness about them (they may need a bit of tailoring to update them). The design lines flatter your shape, camouflaging and highlighting the right bits. Also the scale of the item is appropriate to your personal scale.

Fit: treasures fit properly. Make the effort to have items altered (especially tailored pieces) as it's rare to find something that fits perfectly.

Condition: treasures are worth repairing, although eventually they'll wear out (which is why it pays to buy quality pieces as they last longer).

Treasures aren't always in fashion yet thanks to trend cycles, they'll come back.

TV Debut

I was invited to take part in the Bella Vi seasonal make-over programme recently. I met with Tracey Ruddock-Gudsell of Creative Tauranga for her Personal Style workshops one Monday. It was a beautiful day and we had great fun discovering Tracey's personal style.

Tracey was up early for the next day's filming; I caught up with her mid-afternoon in Mt Maunganui. My interview with Aimee and shopping with Tracey was filmed at Women. Within a week it was edited and broadcast.

to view the programme, click here

to see just my interview, click here

2012 Winter Fashions

2012 Winter Fashions

The sad thing about March is that it heralds the end of Summer. (What Summer?!) However it's great to see the Autumn and Winter fashions coming into the shops.

Such an interesting range: there are slim pencil skirts (very popular) AND softly draping A-lines (kinder to more figures). A dress to suit every woman - flattering empire lines, oh-so-useful wraps, straight shifts and waisted with full skirts. Lovely lady-like looks from the 50‘s plus 60’s mod interpretations.

Wide and skinny legged trousers - choose the style that suits you, also leggings (to be worn with great caution: ensure your crotch and bottom are completely covered by your top AND your legs are worth showing off. If not, wear under a dress).

Marvelous jackets - short and long lengths, tuxedo style (a timeless classic) and with peplums (be careful - they tend to emphasise a tummy and widen hips). Heaps of cardigans - especially sweet little waisted ones, some are long and flowing. Plus waistcoats - in fact, lots of tailored-suit styling.

Fabulous colours too; my personal favourites are cobalt blue and teal green. There are some wonderful reds (blue-reds and yellow-reds) from each season’s palette. Lovely grey blues and soft mauve-pinks for the Summers. Oranges continue - bright corals for Springs and deep pumpkins for Autumns, with Mustard making an appearance (this has to be one of the hardest colours to wear, and it doesn’t suit all Autumn ladies).

If you need to update your core essentials ie neutrals, then this is the time to do it as it’s a massive trend to dress only in neutrals this season (boring!). In the shops - as always - heaps of black, but I’ve also found fantastic greys, browns, creams, and whites - you really are spoilt for choice.

Oh and if you need a coat you’re likely to find it - colours and neutrals, plain and prints, short and long, from parkas to dressy.

Remember to keep your wardrobe interesting by embracing different textures (very big this season) there’s leather, velvet, and lace often together on one garment.

Chunky knits and fur aplenty; which is great for keeping warm but can make you look big and bulky so team with slim, flattering lines.

You’ll find metallics and sparkly looks too; be careful where you wear these on your body as they reflect light ie makes things look bigger. Hmm - maybe not shiny silver skinny jeans then! Far better in fabulous accessories.

Animal patterns abound: mostly crocodile & snakeskin versions. Leave it to the young or really outrageous to wear from top to bottom; an item or two is all you need to show you’re up-to-date (perhaps in a top or simply an accessory).

Colour blocking (ref Mondrian style) continues in a cleverer, more flattering way eg a dress with princess seaming, and darker side panels. Tops and dresses that have a brighter colour across the shoulders which visually widens (making hips appear narrower), and geometric patterns - all part of the 60’s inspiration.

It really is a pick 'n' mix season - remember, not everything will work for you so select what will. Having a great core wardrobe (neutral basics) makes it easy to buy just a few items which will update your look.

Have fun! (and if you need some help, just ring me on 07 575 7415 or email me margaret@personal-style.co.nz)

Tips for Choosing Flattering Swimwear

(from Dec 2010 newsletter)

Highlight figure assets with lighter/brighter colours, prints or detailing and camouflage figure challenges with something darker and/or plainer. For example:

SMALL BUST: choose lighter/brighter colours for top half, add a little padding or detailing eg frills or ruching at the bust.

BIG BUST: make sure you get the support you need. Opt for wide shoulder straps rather than thin or strapless nb the right halter-neck can work well. Avoid detailing at the bust - keep it simple, and remember - plain, darker fabrics visually minimise.

Spring Fashion Advice

Isn't it a wonderful time of year? I love looking at all the new clothes and styles in the shops, reading the fashion magazines, and updating my wish list (oh dear, it's getting rather long!)

Let's start with COLOUR. Thankfully there's a lot of choice and whichever Season you are, you'll find something in your range.

You’ll see lots of brights - best for Winters and Springs - in cool AND warm colours. There are oranges, blues, greens, reds, and corals. Keep hunting and there are some wonderful muted tones - for Summers and Autumns.

Springs: Fashion is in love with your light brights; a vast range of oranges from apricots to corals and brightest mandarin. Some lovely aquas, teals, light greens and chartreuse. Snap up your neutrals in creams, sand, tans and browns.

Autumns: I know it’s often hard to find your palette, so you’ll be thrilled with the choice. Try to avoid the Spring tints and zoom in on your deep rich shades. Gorgeous colours: burnt oranges, paprika, brick reds, mustards, golds, olives, and fantastic neutrals: khakis, creams and browns.

Summers: Plenty of your delightful smokey blues, reds, pinks and teals. White is a big hit for the warm weather, a lovely albeit impractical look. Navy and grey continue to be available (hurray! you don’t have to make do with black).

Winters: Heaps of bright pinks, raspberry reds, cobalt blues, turquoises, and teals. Black (of course!), greys, some navy, and stacks of white.

LACE is everywhere but now it’s heavier, more antique-style, plus crochet and macrame are coming through. Tassels seem to be on everything!

SHEER lots of see-through looks: lace & crochet dresses (choose your slip or underwear wisely), floaty chiffons and voiles in tops, skirts and dresses (all lengths).

LADY-LIKE elegant blouses with billowing sleeves and bows at the neck, full skirts and dresses to the knee or mid-calf.

ORIENTAL kimono-like sleeves, obi-like sashes, origami-like pleats and folds, very sculptural.

TROUSERS - wide legs and flares are back in (Curvy's rejoice they’re much more flattering to your shape) but narrow-legs and leggings haven’t disappeared there’s just more choice in styles.

ACCESSORIES are bigger and bolder. Big bangles and cuffs. Necklaces are real statement pieces. Ladies, please mind your scale: a Petite’s big is smaller than a Grande’s. An Expressive will delight in a larger piece than a Romantic.

Oh, and don’t discard accessories; they may be currently out of fashion, but they’ll come back! (I threw out my narrow belt a couple of years ago - duh!)

About 70-80% of your clothes can be basics (essentials) so only 20-30% needs to be in vogue. Most of us don’t have to buy an entire new wardrobe, just mix and match what we have with a few new purchases.

Chrissy's Make-over

Make-overs are great to see aren't they? But a make-over may not help you know what actually works for you - it's a wonderful experience yet afterwards you can still feel a bit lost.

Let me introduce you to a friend of mine; Chrissy of Bliss Baskets & Gifts. She entered a magazine competition late last year and won a fab make-over.

I recognised Chrissy in the magazine and was delighted for her but some of the stylists' choices made me shudder! So I made contact and gifted a Personal Style Private Consultation (comprehensive workshop with wardrobe audit).

Chrissy is a Summer and suits the blue-based, greyed colours, her style personality is primarily Classic-Chic with Feminine-Romantic and a touch of Exotic-Expressive.

Like many mainly Classic-Chics she had great core essentials in her wardrobe but 'something' was missing. Now she knows to incorporate some soft draping and prettiness with a touch of pizzaz to reflect all her style personality.

Chrissy is just 1.57m (5'2") and Petite in scale, she is short-waisted with an enviable Hourglass figure. Best design lines for Chrissy highlight her lovely shape while elongating her.

This all made a lot of sense to Chrissy, who now understands what is was she liked about her favourite clothes and how to make wise buying choices in the future.

I referred her to my hair stylist Becky as Chrissy's hair cut was rather severe and the warm shades were aging her.

Becky began correcting the colour and gave Chrissy a softer style, as well as helping her with some easy ways of styling it.

More tips

Here are some tips & comments I've posted on Personal Style's FaceBook page www.facebook.com/personalstylenz

Figure Challenge: long waisted? Elongate your legs - opt for higher waisted clothes; slim legged trousers worn long; hosiery and slim heels which match skirt/trousers, belts to match your skirt/trousers.

Avoid anything low-waisted, patterned hosiery, capris and cuffed trousers.

The trouble with Fashion: a camel coloured trench coat does NOT suit everyone. Camel/tan is a warm colour so won't flatter cool-toned folk. Trench coats are double-breasted ie rather shapeless, which will make you look the same. Pockets and details add volume too (do you WANT to look bigger?)

How to shop UNsuccessfully: don't try on clothes. Buy for when you've lost weight. Buy something you feel uncomfortable in. Compromise so you haven't wasted your time :-(

Want to know what you REALLY wear? Try this for a month: everything you actually wear goes back in one side (eg Right) of your wardrobe. At the end of the month what you haven't worn will be on the other side (eg Left).

check out more comments on www.facebook.com/personalstylenz

The Must Have List

according to Nina Garcia (TV's Project Runway, and Fashion Editor at Marie Claire magazine (continued from my last newsletter). with my comments in italics

Skirt - A-line or pencil (or one of each) with a hemline just above/below the knee (whichever works best for you). Wool for autumn/winter, cotton for spring/summer. Dark solids or subtle prints in muted colours.
M: Pencil skirts don't suit all body types, A-lines are better. Neutral solids are the most versatile nb Winters/Springs don't suit muted colours. Solids are more useful as they can be worn with solids or patterns

Blazer - tailored blazer or suit-style jacket gives a put-together look.
M: Classic-Chics will love this, Natural-Casuals prefer a less structured jacket, Feminine-Romantics want a softer, drapier feel (maybe lace trim too), Exotic-Expressives like a unique look ie more creativity.

Little Black Dress - a simple black shift can be accessorised in many different ways. Choose a matte fabric, not too stretchy eg wool crepe. Good fit is important, tailor as necessary.
M: Opting for your darkest neutral would work better eg Navy is back in fashion and would be gorgeous for Summers. Black doesn't flatter everyone but you can make it work for you with the right-coloured accessories (earrings, necklace, scarf). If it isn't your best neutral then choose low rather than high neckline styles so it's away from your face. Consider a no-sleeve style; easy to wear a mesh top underneath to cover arms or in winter.

to be continued

Selecting Swimwear

Here are some tips to make it a bit easier to find the right one for your body shape. Basically, highlight assets with lighter/brighter colours or prints or detailing and camouflage figure challenges with darker/plainer colours

Small Bust: Choose lighter /brighter colours for top half, a little padding, or detailing eg frills, ruching at the bust.

Big Bust: Make sure you get the support you need. Opt for wide shoulder straps (not thin, string or strapless). The right halter-neck style can work well. Avoid detailing at bust area, keep it simple. Plain, darker fabrics will visually minimise.

Thick Waist: create curves with draped surplice (cross-over) style, darker/plainer colour at waist. Add emphasis to bust & hips as visually widening them makes your waist look smaller.

Round Tummy: Distract away from area by high­lighting a figure asset eg bust. Draping & ruching flatter by preventing fabric from clinging (which emphasises).

Big Hips/Thighs: draw the eye up with print top, use plainer/darker colour for lower half.

Short: a one piece with plunging neckline or vertical stripes will elongate you. Or plain bottom with printed top (draws eye upward). Simple & unfussy styles.

Tall: opt for patterns, blocks of colour, details, or cut outs (to break up your length). Avoid high necklines, vertical stripes, dark solid colours.

On Line Advice

Do you want more info. and pictures regarding what to wear for your body shape? Maybe this will help; there's now a link on my website to The Personal Stylist (an Australian site).

Usually $A89, if you go via my website then it's just $NZ85 The program will ask you various questions and provide advice regarding your best shapes eg collars, necklines, tops, jackets, dresses etc (even hairstyles) which you can print out. Books are also available ($NZ30-38)

Yes, you can check it out first. View the video and look at the sample recommendations for "Ellen Sims".

Spring Fashion

This little top is from Farmers. It uses narrow stripes above the bust which visually widens the shoulders. Great for Triangles.

Looking Slim Rule 8

Continuing a series based around Leah Feldon's 10 Rules for Dressing Slim. It's good to know her Top Ten are all covered in the Personal Style Workshops, so this is just a refresher for you.

Rule 8 Build on the Right Foundations

Underwear can make a big difference to how you look in your clothes. Visible panty lines not only look bad but they often create bulges eg bikinis create bumps across buttocks AND hips, boy-leg cuts emphasise heavy thighs.

Experts reckon 70-80% of women are wearing the wrong size bra, could that be you? You need a 'wardrobe' of bra styles. Push-up bras create cleavage and look great in a low-cut top but add lumps under snug knits, that's when you need a seamless, moulded cup (t-shirt bra). A convertible bra for different strap styles (halter neck, criss-crossed, wide set, racer-back). Some women need padded bras, others need minimiser bras, while side support panels are a great choice if you bulge at the sides (under the arms).

Sheer pantyhose offer leg support (compression to increase blood circulation) and help hold you in. Good ones aren't cheap but they are definitely worthwhile (M- I've started wearing Kolotex Sheer Relief).

'Shapewear' is the next step up from underwear; it's designed to slim and "de-jiggle" you. You may have heard of Nancy Gatz' Body-slimmers and Trinny & Susannah's Magic Knickers. There's something for every problem area: body suits, body slips, half slips, tummy-toner panties, waist cinchers, derriere lifters, long-leg panties, and leggings.

Undercover

The right underwear can make the most amazing difference! Lumps and bumps are smoothed away, small breasted women develop cleavage, large breasts are supported, shaped (and minimised if you want).

Personally I've always wanted a bit more; let's face it I was embarrassed to be 30 years old and 30AA! Things improved as I got older - 34B at 40 and 34/36C at 50 - I was thrilled! Then I was gently advised that 'we soften around the sides as we get older'. Sadly I've 'softened' around the sides AND waist AND tummy ....Sigh!

Anyway, for the ladies who want to flatter a fuller bust here are some reminders: DO get fitted professionally, it's essential (and a good corsetiere will NOT embarrass you in anyway). V-necks are the most flattering necklines; high neck lines eg crew, jewel, turtle, polo can make you look larger. Avoid details at the bust line eg yokes, pockets and horizontal lines eg sleeve hems.

I recently heard a stylist advocating 'cleavage divas' should wear double-breasted jackets as it 'squashes' them. AAAGH! The last thing you want is to look broader and/or shapeless. Opt for a single-breasted tailored or semi-tailored jacket with a low stance (where the buttons & lapels meet - the bottom of the V-neckline) ie at mid-chest or cleavage level and with just a one-button fastening.

Body Shape and Barbie

Did you realise that if Barbie were life-size,
her measurements would be 39-23-33 inches? (100-58-84 cms)

In each workshop, I teach on the design lines of clothes and basic body shapes. Understanding our silhouette & shape helps us make the most of the lines within clothes - so we can camouflage our figure 'challenges' and highlight our assets.

Virtually every time the comment is made, "I'm not as bad as I thought I was" or "I'm not so big in the hips/waist/shoulders." While I'm sure I'm not dealing with the true psychiatric disorder of Body Dysmorphia (being excessively concerned about and preoccupied by an imagined or minor defect in physical features) it's sad that so few are positive about their body.

We are continually fed LIES via magazines, TV, movies etc. The body shape of models exists in just 4% of the population, and even the super-models have their photos enhanced & changed ... the women we see in the media DON'T EXIST!

Yes, of course we need to be fit and healthy; eating food that's good for us and exercising appropriately (not always easy in our hyper-busy culture) but please look around and make sure you are feeding realistic, healthy images into your mind.

The mind doesn't know the difference between fantasy and reality - that's why the imagination is so powerful and visualisation can improve an athlete's performance. But if you focus on an unachievable, unrealistic goal you are setting yourself up for constant disappointment and failure. Don't be so cruel to yourself!

Body Shape

Understanding your Body Shape is one of the basics to choosing the design lines that will work best for you. I like to keep things simple - I refer to four basic shapes (Hour-Glass, Triangle, Inverted Triangle, and Rectangle). But there is an even simpler classification: Straight or Curvy.

Straights usually have rounded stomachs, a 'soft' waistline and fairly flat bottoms; any extra weight is carried on their tummies or upper hips.

Fitted dresses, skirts & trousers work well, as do skirts with straight lines. Choose minimal waistbands & slim fit rather than full, gathered or pleated skirts/trousers.

Make the most of your shapely legs, and SKIM the waist (don't try to create/emphasise what you don't have).

Curvys tend to have wider hips with flatter stomachs, rounded bottoms and curvy upper thighs; their extra weight is carried on their lower hips, bottoms or upper thighs.

Soft, flowing lines on the lower half works well but shift dresses and straight skirts don't. Highlight your waist & top half.