Jackets

The right jacket can be very flattering to you as well as 'making' an outfit. Conversely, the wrong jacket can emphasise figure faults and ruin an ensemble.

Remember, it's virtually impossible to buy a perfectly fitting jacket off the peg (ditto for most items actually) so please budget for alterations.

Here's some advice on how to choose the right length for you.

SHORT JACKETS: end in line with your waist or slightly below. They will make you look taller BUT will also highlight any extra weight you may be carrying around your middle.


MEDIUM JACKETS: end just below the widest part of your hips which they'll emphasis (avoid if you are a triangle / pear shape)

LONG JACKETS: Measure the distance from the top of your shoulder to the floor (take off your shoes when measuring). Now halve it. This is your personal long-jacket length ensuring your body looks in proportion. (NB for easy reference, note where this is on your body eg end of your little finger or take a tape measure with you when shopping.)

EXTRA LONG JACKETS: suit taller women (over 1.65m or 5'6"). They work best with slim pants and short to knee length skirts (definitely not long skirts - they'll mess up your proportions). I love this look but I'm too short to wear it!)

Choose a jacket that fits your shoulders (avoiding expensive shoulder alterations) and skims your waist (a semi-tailored fit is universally flattering).

Sleeve length is important; they should end just below your wrist bone (if they end at the widest part of your hand they make your hands AND hips look wider.)

Travelling Light

Developing your wardrobe with the capsule concept makes travelling light easy to achieve. I think everyone has taken far too many items 'just in case'. On returning home you realise you only wore 20% of what you took!

Here's a simple system: limit yourself to two neutrals - one dark, one light - and one colour (two if you're away for a week or more). *see below for your seasonal colour suggestions

Make sure you have an outfit for each type of occasion: Casual, Smart, and Dressy. Remember, some items will work in two categories eg well-cut trousers (Smart and Dressy) as long as you have the right accessories to zhoozh it up.

Think of your time away as a pie and consider how big each slice needs to be. Is your trip 1/2 Casual, 1/4 Smart, 1/4 Dressy? Then pack accordingly.

Layers are the most practical solution when travelling to different climates. Opt for light, breathable fabrics such as merino wool, silk, or rayon and choose items that are multi-use eg camisoles which can be worn alone or under tops.

Large scarves are easy to pack and wonderfully versatile: sarong skirts & dresses, shawls & shrugs, they covers arms and/or heads as well as providing an extra layer.

Wear your Smart jacket to travel in; it will arrive less wrinkled than in your bag and maybe you'll be up-graded!

Travel Capsule Suggestions

Winters: black and white with bright turquoise

Summers: charcoal and white with smoky, medium blue

Autumns: chocolate and oyster white with muted green turquoise

Springs: camel and ivory with bright aqua

Lipsticks for your Season

Knowing your Colours (season) makes life so much easier - especially when it comes to choosing lipsticks.

I found a UK website which sells lipsticks and lists them by your season. While you may not want to buy from them & pay the postage etc, the site is useful to view the recommended shades.

Spring: Coral, Warm Pink, Poppy

Summer: Dusky Rose, Sweet Pea, Garnet Red

Autumn: Warm Spice, Copper, Ruby Red

Winter: Burgundy, Fuchsia, Cranberry

Go to www.janefardon.com

Pilling - those annoying fuzzy balls

Pilling is created when short fibres roll, creating a ball.

The best quality knits will NOT pill (some woollen and cashmere garments have a combination of short and longer fibres woven together).

If a garment has a high acrylic content it is much more likely to pill.

So that's the problem - what's the answer?

Buy really good, quality knits - which are more expensive (although price alone is not a guarantee).

Or be prepared to spend time depilling items using a small fabric shaver. Do NOT use a razor - I can virtually guarantee you'll nick the garment and create a hole (yes, this is the voice of experience speaking)!

Photo Update

We caught up at the Women's Business Web March meeting. Phyllis - what a gorgeous silk scarf you're wearing! It's definitely one of your colours :-)

I sold the silk scarf to Phyllis, it comes from Cambodia where my daughter works. 75% of the money goes to support projects in Cambodia (IRD view it as income so 25% is retained to pay taxes)

She's Someone Special (3)

For the photo shoot Phyllis' daughter-in-law helped her put her hair up, and Phyllis did her own make-up (ie NOT professional).

But the 'after' photo is very definitely showing the difference a professional photographer can make to a photo - wow! Isn't Phyllis stunning?

Oh yes, and here's the update: early in 2009 Phyllis attended a family wedding in Australia. She bought a new outfit in Sydney - she looked (and felt) a million dollars! Note: she didn't need my help when shopping because she now understands her Personal Style.

And that's why I love my work!

She's Someone Special (2)

Charmaine took another 'before' photo of Phyllis, this time she wore a lime green polo neck jumper (see Undercover post on why this style doesn't suit full figured women).

She's Someone Special (1)

I love my work! I meet such wonderful women; teaching and sharing some style basics. Sometimes I hear about the changes they've made as a result and the effect that's had. Some may say 'it's only clothes' but changing what you wear can change how you feel about yourself (and how others see you).

Late in 2008 Marinkovich Photography and I created a package deal titled "She's Someone Special". It consists of an Individual Consultation with me (Personal Style Workshop and wardrobe assessment) and a Design Consultation and Portrait Shoot with Charmaine, all for just $300

To help us promote this package we worked with Phyllis; we have some great 'before' and 'after' photos to show for our time together.

When I arrived at Phyllis' home she was wearing a shapeless, warm red shirt and her hair was a golden honey blonde (see photo). During the Personal Style Workshop we identified she's a cool Winter. We spent time going through her wardrobe and selecting clothes she already owned, which would be ideal for her portrait. Before the shoot, Phyllis chose to re-colour her hair to Ash Blonde.

Undercover

The right underwear can make the most amazing difference! Lumps and bumps are smoothed away, small breasted women develop cleavage, large breasts are supported, shaped (and minimised if you want).

Personally I've always wanted a bit more; let's face it I was embarrassed to be 30 years old and 30AA! Things improved as I got older - 34B at 40 and 34/36C at 50 - I was thrilled! Then I was gently advised that 'we soften around the sides as we get older'. Sadly I've 'softened' around the sides AND waist AND tummy ....Sigh!

Anyway, for the ladies who want to flatter a fuller bust here are some reminders: DO get fitted professionally, it's essential (and a good corsetiere will NOT embarrass you in anyway). V-necks are the most flattering necklines; high neck lines eg crew, jewel, turtle, polo can make you look larger. Avoid details at the bust line eg yokes, pockets and horizontal lines eg sleeve hems.

I recently heard a stylist advocating 'cleavage divas' should wear double-breasted jackets as it 'squashes' them. AAAGH! The last thing you want is to look broader and/or shapeless. Opt for a single-breasted tailored or semi-tailored jacket with a low stance (where the buttons & lapels meet - the bottom of the V-neckline) ie at mid-chest or cleavage level and with just a one-button fastening.

My Mum

Let me introduce you to my mother; she is a Summer and wow! doesn't this blue-green outfit suit her? Wearing one colour helps her look taller and slimmer, the 'jacket' keeps interest on the top half (and covers upper arms).

Cool-toned Ladies can let their hair silver naturally. Remember, grey hair has no pigmentation it just reflects the underlying tone of your colouring. Cool = blue undertones Warm = yellow undertones.

I love seeing women enjoying the colours that suit them - they look gorgeous! And doesn't the wardrobe mix and match easily?

Men & Style (2)

Men’s and women’s body shapes may be quite different, but the basics of camouflaging figure challenges are the same.

The big difference is that the ideal body shape for men is the “Y” or inverted triangle – wide shoulders tapering down to narrow hips.

Here are some reminders from my workshops: use the design lines in clothes to emphasise assets and camouflage figure challenges. Vertical lines help everyone look taller and slimmer. Select horizontal lines carefully; across the shoulders work well for most men.

Nobody (and no body) suits shapeless clothes; big baggy garments make you look big and baggy too. Anything worn too tight causes you to look heavier eg tops stretched over a beer gut are NOT covering it up, they’re emphasising it. The same maxim applies to men as to women – ‘Skim not Cling’.

Good posture and grooming are major contributors to looking stylish. As an added bonus, standing tall has an immediate effect on reducing tubby tummies yet expanding chests.

Your physiology affects your mood: slouching or scuffing your feet and looking down are all communicating lack of confidence – to everyone who sees you AND to yourself. Act as if you’re positive and self assured via your body language and these feelings will soon follow.

The well groomed man showers daily, uses anti-perspirant, trims his facial hair (including eyebrows, nostrils, ears), washes his hair regularly and gets it cut by a good stylist.

He looks after his skin; it’s kept clean and clear and he uses sun-screen. While he may not pay for a manicure and pedicure, he cares for his hands and feet which are clean and smooth, with nails short and tidy.

His clothes are clean and ironed, without any buttons missing or repairs required. His shoes are clean and in good condition.

Have you noticed how important CLEAN is? Being well groomed doesn’t cost much - it just takes a bit of time.

Men & Style (1)

I’m sometimes asked about whether I run workshops for men; the simple answer is No. I choose to focus on women’s style, I like working with and helping women (besides, most guys I know aren’t that interested).

Having said that, I had one male attend a small group workshop and we had a great time identifying his personal style - Colours, Style Personality etc. What a difference! Apparel shopping is now quick and easy, and very successful for him.

Usually, the query is from a woman wanting to help the man in her life. Well, the style basics for his personal style are very similar to her own.

Start with determining which Colours compliment him. Is it the warm, yellow-based colours or the cool, blue-based shades? Can he wear the clear, bright, vivid tones or do they overwhelm him? We want to see him first, not the colour. Do the muted, smokey hues work better?

Is there a difference between men’s seasonal Colours and women’s? Yes and No. Most Kiwi males – even if the colour suits – wouldn’t wear some of the shades in women’s seasonal swatches eg Winter’s bright pink. Keep to the basics: yellow-based or blue-based, clear and vivid or muted and smokey.

These days most budgets require wardrobes that co-ordinate well, and are efficient rather than extensive. The simplest way to achieve this is to build ensembles around a base of neutrals that (a) flatter, (b) work well together and (c) harmonise with all other colours worn.

Second step: what’s his Style Personality? The four main types I refer to in my workshops are Classic-Chic, Feminine-Romantic, Natural-Casual, and Exotic-Expressive. (Just alter the terms a bit to suit a guy ie delete ‘chic’ and ‘feminine’). Remember one type usually dominates, with another as a secondary influence.

Don’t confuse dressing appropriately for the occasion with his Style Personality. Keep in mind we need clothes for casual (at home, relaxing), smart (business, going out) and dressy (formal events, weddings, etc)

Kiwis tend to live a casual life-style with few formal affairs. Many women bewail the lack of opportunities to dress up. In some circles it’s even acceptable to wear jeans to weddings, and many don’t own a smart jacket.

I wrote the last sentence about males but horrors! I realise it applies to women too.